From Arne Adolfsen on Facebook, a link to a piece by food writer Alexandra Greeley in Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture: “Finding Pad Thai”, which begins:
For many westerners, pad Thai—or, more accurately, kway teow pad Thai (stir-fried rice noodles Thai-style)—symbolizes Thai cooking, thanks in large part to the Thai government’s ongoing efforts to introduce the country’s food to the rest of the world. The campaign has been resoundingly successful…
If Westerners believe that pad Thai symbolizes Thai cooking, many Thais agree [and judge Thai restaurants around the world by this dish] … [But in Thailand itself] many restaurants choose not to compete with the street-food vendors, who make and serve only pad Thai all day long and thus have perfected the recipe.
Pad Thai is really nothing more than a regular noodle dish, one that is not even native to Thailand. Its full name, kway teow pad Thai, hints at its possible Chinese origins; kway teow, in Chinese, refers to rice noodles. It is likely that some early version of the dish came to Thailand with settlers crossing from southern China, who brought their own recipe for fried rice noodles.
… Prime Minister Pibulsonggram [Phibunsongkhram in Wikipedia, Phibunsonkhram in OED3; known as Phibun] … is universally credited with having popularized today’s pad Thai recipe by codifying, and perhaps even creating, it.
On the one hand, Greeley says that Pad Thai is “not even native to Thailand”, but on the other, she recognizes that today’s recipe is a specifically Thai creation. There’s no real contradiction here: most dishes have some history taking them back (usually in somewhat different, even rudimentary, form) to places and cultures other than the one they’re now associated with.
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