Fickle tart

A NYT food story by Alexa Weibel on 4/8/19:


I found the food overly precious (Weibel says fastidious), but mostly my eye was caught by the head “A Savory Tart for a Fickle Season”, which seemed to me to be just inviting the unfortunate Spooneristic speech error savory fart for a tickle season (with the onsets /t/ … /f/ exchanged, or reversed).

As for the food, from the article:

The weather can be capricious this time of year, but this savory tart [Zucchini and Egg Tart With Fresh Herbs], adapted from the food writer Anna Jones’s new vegetarian cookbook, “The Modern Cook’s Year” (Abrams, 2019), suits any shade of spring. Store-bought puff pastry is topped with mustard-spiked crème fraîche, swirls of zucchini, custardy eggs and an abundance of fresh greens.

Thanks to a foundation of store-bought puff pastry, this tart is also fairly easy, ideal for a low-fuss Easter brunch. Purchased puff pastry is arguably just as good as homemade, especially if real butter is prominent on the ingredients list. (Many cheaper supermarket brands use oil instead of butter. Those versions will work fine, though the pricier, butter-laden options offer richer flavor.)

Ms. Jones’s book exemplifies seasonal cooking, though it flirts with fastidiousness. This adaptation of her recipe nixes shelling fresh fava beans for frozen peas and swaps delicate baby zucchini for larger pieces of zucchini for a more forgiving approach. Too often, baking whole eggs results in overcooking, but if you arrange slabs of zucchini into deep nests on the puff pastry and nestle the eggs inside, the zucchini will slowly steam the eggs until they’re creamy — and provide a buffer on timing.

And at the end,

any combination of fresh tarragon, small parsley or dill sprigs, and chopped chives, for garnish

Way too tricky for my cooking abilities. Especially for a little Easter brunch.


2 Responses to “Fickle tart”

  1. Sim Aberson Says:

    I made it, and it is overly precious and a but much. It tasted good, but I couldn’t get the fussy basket part right, so it was just a big mess. A tasty big mess.

    • arnold zwicky Says:

      Everyone here at AZFooDeVille thanks you for undertaking this task and reporting on the results. We are considering re-doing some of the details so that the dish can be framed as an eccentric kind of pizza, in which case it’s *expected* to be a tasty big mess.

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