More raw protein

Following up on steak tartare, finely chopped raw beef, I turn to the related case of carpaccio, very thinly sliced raw beef; and the fish correspondent to steak tartare, ceviche; and the pleasures of raw shellfish.

Carpaccio, from Wikipedia:

Carpaccio … is a dish of raw meat or fish (such as beef, veal, venison, salmon or tuna), thinly sliced or pounded thin and served mainly as an appetizer.

Carpaccio is the international name of a typical Italian dish made with raw meat. The dish was proposed with this name for the first time in Venice, at the time of an exhibition dedicated to Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio which took place around 1950.

The dish, based on the Piedmont speciality “Carne cruda all’Albese”, was invented and popularised by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice. He originally prepared the dish for the countess Amalia Nani Mocenigo when he learned that the doctors had recommended that she eat raw meat. The dish was named “Carpaccio” after Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for the characteristic red and white tones of his work.

The typical Piedmont Carpaccio is made with very thin slices of beef meat placed on a dish with a marinade made with lemon, olive oil and with shavings of white truffle or Parmesan cheese, and can be topped with rocket.

The meat usually used for Carpaccio is beef sirloin, a cut tastier than the fillet. Since this is a dish best served raw, the meat must be fresh.


(There is of course a tuna carpaccio variant.)

Hard to believe that the dish is so recent, but easy to believe that the name is so recent.

[Added 8/15: I had dinner at Three Seasons a few days ago and discovered that the sushi menu was gone, but sashimi of hamachi had been added to the (fusion) Vietnamese menu. It turned out to be not Japanese-style sashimi at all, but in fact hamachi carpaccio!]

On ceviche:

Ceviche … is a seafood dish popular in the coastal regions of the Americas, especially Central and South America. The dish is typically made from fresh raw fish [sometimes shrimp] marinated in citrus juices, such as lemon or lime, and spiced with ají or chili peppers. Additional seasonings, such as chopped onions, salt, and coriander, may also be added. Ceviche is usually accompanied by side dishes that complement its flavors, such as sweet potato, lettuce, corn, avocado or plantain. As the dish is not cooked with heat, it must be prepared fresh to minimize the risk of food poisoning. It may be safer to prepare it with frozen or blast-frozen fish due to Anisakis parasites.

The origin of ceviche is disputed. Possible origin sites for the dish include the western coast of north-central South America, or in Central America. The invention of the dish is also attributed to other coastal societies, such as the Polynesian islands of the south Pacific. The Spanish, who brought from Europe citrus fruits, such as lime, could have also originated the dish with roots in Moorish cuisine. However, the most likely origin lies in the area of present-day Peru.


And then raw oysters (#3) and clams (#4):



Shellfish on the half shell is served with various accompaniments:  lemon, salt, cracked black pepper, mignonette sauce (especially cucumber mignonette sauce), Tabasco sauce (or another hot sauce), horseradish, mayonnaise, and cocktail sauce. Sauces and dressings:

Mignonette sauce is a condiment usually made with minced shallots, cracked pepper, and vinegar. It is traditionally served with raw oysters. The name “mignonette” originally referred to a bundle of peppercorns, cloves, and spices used to flavor dishes, but now simply means cracked pepper. Though different mignonette sauces use different types of vinegar, all contain pepper. (Wikipedia link)

Cocktail sauce, originally known as Marie Rose sauce, is one of several types of cold or room temperature sauces often served as part of the dish(es) referred to as seafood cocktail or as a condiment with other seafoods. The sauce, and the dish for which it is named, were invented by British cook, Fanny Cradock.

In America it generally consists of ketchup or chili sauce mixed with prepared horseradish. Some restaurants use chili sauce, a spicier tomato-based sauce, in place of the ketchup.

The common form of cocktail sauce in Australia, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Iceland, France and Belgium, usually consists of mayonnaise mixed with a tomato sauce to the same pink color as prawns, producing a result that could be compared to fry sauce. It is so similar to Thousand Island Dressing that it is commonly referred to by that name, even in Britain… It is popularly served with steamed shrimp and seafood on the half shell. (Wikipedia link)

Russian dressing is a salad dressing invented in Nashua, New Hampshire by James E. Colburn, likely in the 1910s.(Colburn first named his experiment Russian mayonnaise, labels for which are today in the possession of collectors.) Typically piquant, it is today characteristically made of a blend of mayonnaise and ketchup complemented with such additional ingredients as horseradish, pimentos, chives and spices. (Wikipedia link)

Marie Rose sauce (known in some areas as cocktail sauce, seafood sauce, ketchyo, maychup, ketchanaise, tomayo, burger sauce, fancy sauce or dip) [note the portmanteaus] is a British condiment made from a blend of tomatoes, mayonnaise, Worchestershire sauce, lemon juice and pepper. A simpler version can be made my merely mixing tomato ketchup with mayonnaise. The sauce, as well as the meal from which its more common name, cocktail sauce, originates was invented in the 1960s by renowned British cook Fanny Cradock. It is often used with seafood, and prawns in particular. Giles Coren said: “Prawn cocktail dripping with Marie Rose sauce is, probably, most symbolic of 70s cuisine. Despite popular belief, Russian dressing, although demonstrating many of the physical and chemical properties of Marie Rose, is a completely separate condiment and should be treated as such.” [Apparently it’s all in the ingredients other than mayonnaise and ketchup.]

In the United States, a similar sauce, fry sauce, is served with french fries. And in the United States and Canada, another similar sauce called Thousand Island dressing is served. Thousand Island dressing recipe reputedly originated from the Thousand Islands in Ontario, Canada. (Wikipedia link)

Fry sauce is a regional condiment served with French fries. It is usually a simple combination of one part ketchup and two parts mayonnaise. When spices and other flavorings are added, it is similar to — but thicker and smoother than—traditional Russian dressing and Thousand Island dressing. In the United States, fry sauce is commonly found in restaurants in Utah and Idaho, as well as available by mail-order. Occasionally other ingredients such as barbecue sauce are substituted for ketchup, and other variations (created independently of the Utah version) exist outside of the United States.

The Utah-based Arctic Circle restaurant chain claims to have invented fry sauce around 1948. However, a recipe for Thousand Island dressing dating from 1900 has mayonnaise, ketchup, and pickles as the only ingredients, albeit in a 1:1 ratio. Arctic Circle serves fry sauce in its restaurants in the western United States. Many other fast-food restaurants and family restaurants in the region, such as Carl’s Jr, Crown Burgers, Apollo Burger, Astro Burger and Hires Big H, also offer their own versions of the sauce. Some variations include chopped pickles, chopped onions, and shredded cabbage. (Wikipedia link)

Thousand Island dressing is a salad dressing and condiment.

Its base commonly contains mayonnaise and can include olive oil, lemon juice, orange juice, paprika, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, vinegar, cream, chili sauce, tomato purée, ketchup, or Tabasco sauce.

It also typically contains finely chopped ingredients, which can include pickles, onions, bell peppers, green olives, hard-boiled egg, parsley, pimento, chives, garlic, or chopped nuts (such as walnuts or chestnuts).

Thousand Island dressing is attested in a 1900 cookbook, in a context implying that it was known by then in New Orleans.

According to The Oxford Companion of Food and Drink, “the name presumably comes from the Thousand Islands between the United States and Canada in the St. Lawrence River.” [There are elaborate stories.]

… In the 1950s, Thousand Island dressing became a standard condiment, used on sandwiches and salads alike. It is widely used in fast-food restaurants and diners in America. Thousand Island dressing is also often used as an ingredient in a Reuben sandwich in place of Russian dressing. (Wikipedia link)

Tabasco sauce is a hot sauce made from tabasco peppers (Capsicum frutescens var. tabasco), vinegar and salt. It has a hot, spicy flavor.

The sauce is produced by US-based McIlhenny Company to whom the “Tabasco sauce” brand name belongs. (Wikipedia link)

There are lots of ways to jazz up plain mayonnaise or plain ketchup, indeed lots of ways to do this by combining ketchup and mayonnaise. And of course there are dozens of hot pepper sauces.

2 Responses to “More raw protein”

  1. John Says:

    There’s speculation of a linkage between ceviche and escabeche and all the way back to Persian es-sikbaj… all of them preparations of seafood preserved in vinegar or other sours.

  2. Victor Steinbok Says:

    Commercial Thousand Island dressing is usually indistinguishable from Russian Dressing and I used to have a bottle that had both names on it (one in parentheses), but I’ve long discarded it.

    If you are going to discuss Carpaccio as raw protein, it’s worth noting that the quoted text mentions “carne cruda” (raw meat), so it leads directly to another common foodie experience–crudo. The only thing that distinguishes carpaccio from a generic crudo is thickness–carpaccio is invariably paper thin, whether it’s made from a variety of meat or fish. Crudo is a broader category that may include slices of various thickness and other shapes, such as cubes. The more enterprising top chefs also make crudo with raw vegetables. Unless I’ve completely gone off the rails, crudo seems to originate from Italian and simply means raw (see “carne cruda” above). Crudo is a common preparation on various culinary TV reality shows.

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